Ottawa's Premier Wine Appreciation Organization - National Capital Sommelier Guild

Riesling Madness

Tuesday, 12 September 2006

Reported by Natale Lafaro

Wow! Niagara comes on top—but you already knew the Niagara Peninsula (read Bench) makes great Riesling. The tasting was divided into three flights: dry, medium dry to medium sweet, and sweet. Twenty five Riesling lovers gathered to go through Rieslings from eight different countries and twelve different regions.

The dry flight started with the only truly bone dry Riesling (all others were a one on the LCBO sugar scale). From the Eden Valley we enjoyed Penfolds “Reserve Bin”. This is a crisp, steely, minerally, grapefruit laden Riesling. No one guessed Australia (myself included). At up to 500m altitude, the Eden Valley has proven to make Australia’s best Riesling to date. The wine that garnered the most opposite opinions was the Pierre Sparr Grand Cru Schoenburg with some absolutely loving the wine while others ranked the wine last. It was the oldest of the dry Rieslings. The favourite was Flat Rock Nadja Vineyard with flavours of peach, citrus, pineapple, and a very long crisp finish.

Flight two included Rieslings of increasing sweetness. The first three wines would be classified as medium dry. The favourite by far was the Egon Muller Scharzhofberger. The wine exuded slate, mineral, and a touch of petrol with peach and grapefruit flavours. The last two wines were medium sweet. Dr Loosen Auslese was atypical of Mosel Auslese coming from the very hot 2003, it showed a lot of candied apple and caramel. The favourite and overall flight two favourite was the Cave Spring Indian Summer Riesling. Kudos to Rod Story for nailing the wine. Classic Indian Summer with loads of peach and apricot character.

On to the nectar of the Gods. It was close. The three wines that really stood out showed the incredible diversity of Riesling. The Mount Horrocks Cordon Cut was as sweet as the icewines, but with a light (positive) vinsanto/oxidized note. To make this wine, the cordons are cut and the grapes are left to raisin. As big as the icewine and almost as popular was the Forrest Estate Marlborough (yes Marlborough!) Botrytis Affected Riesling—it exuded honey, peaches, and botrytis, and great, refreshing acidity. The favourite of the flight was the Henry of Pelham Icewine. Classic with loads of dried pineapple and dried apricot matched with vibrant acidity.

Delicious!

Cheeses
1) Delice de Bourgogne, France
2) Etoriki, France
3) Cantonnier, Quebec
4) Mexicana hot pepper cheddar, England
5) Roquefort, France

Flight 1: Dry Wines
Penfolds, 2005, Eden Valley, Australia, 13% alc. $25.95 558650
Graf Hardegg Steinbugel, 2004, Niederosterreich, Austria, 13% alc. $19.95 674143
Pierre Sparr Schoenburg Grand Cru, 2000, Alsace, 13% alc. $34.00 664995
Quail’s Gate, 2004, Okanagan, 12.5% alc. $25.95 590653
Flat Rock Nadja’s Vineyard, 2004, Niagara Peninsula, 12.5% $19.95 N/A

Flight 2: Off-Dry to Medium Sweet Wines
Chateau Bela, 2002, Sturovo, Slovakia, 13% alc. $19.95 726315
Chateau Ste. Michelle Eroica, 2004, Columbia Valley, Washington, 12.5% alc. $36.95 677161
Egon Muller Scharzhofberger Kabinett, 2003, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany, 9.5% alc. $39.95 720201
Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenhur Auslese, 2003, Mosel Saar-Ruwer, Germany, 8% alc. 375 ml $28.00 670281
Cave Spring Indian Summer Riesling, 2004, Niagara Peninsula, 12.5% alc., 375 ml $24.95 415901

Flight 3: Dessert Wines
Franz Kunstler Hattenheimer Holle Eiswein, 1997, Rheingau, Germany, 7% alc., 375 ml $99.95 726497
Arrowood Select Late Harvest, 2004, Alexander Valley, California, 9.8% alc., 375 ml $37.95 674895
Mount Horrocks Cordon Cut, 2003, Clare Valley, Australia, 11% alc., 375 ml $33.95 657653
Forrest Estate Botrytis Affected, 2003, Marlborough, New Zealand, 10% alc., 375 ml $27.95 596965
Henry of Pelham Icewine, 2004, Niagara Peninsula, 10% alc., 375 ml $54.95 430561

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