Reported by Jay Hunt

This event, part of the four continent challenge series, was conducted by Guild Director Jay Hunt. Twelve Merlot wines representing seven countries from the continents of Europe, Australia/New Zealand, South America, and North America were pitted against one another in a blind tasting. They were organized into three flights by price range, under $17, $17 – $25 and over $25.

The favourite wine of the first flight was from Washington State, the 2001 Columbia Crest Merlot Grand Estates at $16.95 with soft black cherry fruit and a smooth, full mouth, lots of sour cherry, and a little earthiness. Second was the Chilean 2004 Vina La Rosa Merlot ‘La Capitana’ at $14.95. It had dark red fruit and some tar on the nose. It is full bodied with bitter, harsh tannins that could use some age to soften. The 2004 West Australian Merlot Reserve from Sandalford Wines, $15.95 offered up candied red fruit on the nose. It was soft on the palate balanced and very pleasant. Least favourite was the 2002 Chateau Canada, $14.95 from Bordeaux, France. It had red fruit on the nose, but was thin and astringent with unbalanced acidity in the mouth. Round one went overwhelmingly to North America.

The second flight ended in a tie between North America and New Zealand. Canada’s Okanagan Valley rang in with the 2002 Sumac Ridge Black Sage Vineyard Merlot at $17.95. A bit closed on first sniff, but after swirling, it opened up to show ripe red fruit, a hint of mint, and some mushroom. It was smooth, well balanced, and pleasant with a lingering finish. Tied with it was the 2003 Mills Reef Merlot Reserve from Hawkes Bay, New Zealand, $18.00. It had sweet red fruit and cedar on the nose. It had a full round mouth with some viscosity, was balanced, and well integrated with a medium long pleasant finish. Chile’s Rapel Valley came next with the 2004 Casa Lapostolle Merlot, $16.95. It displayed subtle red fruit with an earthy herbaceousness and a medicinal, minty overtone. It had a good, round mouth feel, some acidity, and enough tannins to have aging potential. Again France trailed behind with its 2000 Christian Moueix Merlot/Cabernet Franc blend, $19.95. It was a bit closed on the nose, suggesting some oxidization masking the red fruit background. It lacked integration in the mouth leaving an unbalanced sour aftertaste.

North America ruled again on the final flight. California was the first wine with the Alexander Valley 2003 Sebastiani Merlot, $32.95. It exhibited a complex nose of sweet, red fruit, pencil shavings, minerals, and spice. It had a round full mouth showing caramel, oak and vanilla, light acidity, and a balanced, medium-long finish. Europe finally came out of the cellar with the second choice, not from France however, but Tuscany, Italy. The 2000 Frescobaldi Merlot—Lamaione, $59.95 was a flavour bomb with lots of ripe fruit, licorice, black pepper, and oak predominating. It has a smooth, viscous, full mouth with firm tannins. It is still quite young, needs food to complement it, and will continue to improve for several years. Casa Lapostolle from the Rapel Valley of Chile showed well again, this time with their 2003 Merlot Cuvee Alexandre at $34.95. A bit closed, it showed subtle floral fruitiness backed with a hint of dusty grass. On the palate it showed cherry fruit, good acidity, and a long, hot, tannic finish. Australia’s entry did not fare so well this time. The 2000 Merlot from Katanook Estate in Coonawarra, $29.95 was green, herbaceous and earthy, lacking much of the fruitiness one has come to expect from down under. It was medium body, with unbalanced acid and tannins.

Perhaps it is that our palates are tuned to new world style wines but North America was the clear winner with South America and Australia/New Zealand tied for second.

France redeemed herself with the final wine which was not included in the challenge, but at a price! The $69.00 Chateau Taillefer from Pomerol showed what a right bank Merlot should taste like. It showed good dark red fruit, cedar and spice. It was the best integrated of all the wines, well balanced with a smooth easy drinking style and pleasant, lingering finish.

Flight 1: Under $17

• Chateau Canada, 2002, Bordeaux, France 559468 $14.95
• Vina La Rosa ‘La Capitana’ Merlot, 2004, Chile 655209 $14.95
• Sandalford ‘Element’ Merlot, 2004, West Australia 683961 $15.95
• Columbia Crest Grand Estates Merlot, 2001, Washington, USA 263418 $16.65

Flight 2: $17 to $25

• Casa Lapostolle Merlot, 2004, Rapel Valley, Chile 405712 $16.95
• Sumac Ridge Black Sage Vineyard Merlot, 2002, Okanagan, Canada 593053 $17.95
• Mills Reef Merlot Reserve, 2003, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand 586123 $18.00
• Christian Moueix Saint Emilion, 2000, France (Merlot/Cabernet Franc) 979955 19.95

Flight 3: Over $25

• Katnook Estate Merlot, 2000, Coonawarra, Australia 718528 $29.95
• Sebastiani Alexander Valley Merlot, 2003, California, USA 672659 $32.95
• Casa Lapostolle Cuvée Alexandre Merlot, 2003, Rapel Valley, Chile 459206 $34.95
• Frescobaldi Lamaione Merlot, 2000, Tuscany, Italy 978411 $59.95

Flight 4

• Chateau Taillefer, 2000, Pomerol, France 672620 $69.00