Reported by Stéphane Bisson

One look at the cover of the Vintages catalogue for December 9th 2006 says it all: Champagne! With the holiday  season upon us, the LCBO decided to include no less than 17 sparklers from that region, plus 11 more from around the  world. Therefore, Guild Director Joe Hatz wisely decided to make the first flight a bubbly one. Since we were tasting  blind, those first four wines were not immediately identified as Champagnes ... Nonetheless, each wine had its own  personality and it became fairly easy to tell them apart. The favourite was probably the Pol Roger Extra Cuvée de  Réserve 1998, a fine bubbly which began with a leesy nose of toasted bread, and subsequently exploded in the mouth  with millions of fine bubbles! Pear and fresh apple in the mouth, and a medium finish made this a classic Champagne.  The first wine, the Blanc de Blancs by Feuillate, was also enjoyed but offered a less complex palate of fresh citrus and  tree fruit. The third wine, the Heidsleck Reserve, was earthier, yet sensibly more acidic in the mouth and buttery on the  finish at the same time. Those present were quite divided on the $137 Bollinger Grande Année 1997; some tasters  really enjoyed its oaky, earthy, and nutty character while others were taken aback by its bitterness and lean fruit. This  wine is apparently a favourite of Brits and is mainly destined for export markets since the French prefer their sparklers to be more fruit-driven.

The second flight started off with a surprising Pinot Noir from New Zealand. Most did not guess the varietal and  thought it to be an Old World wine; the nose was rather earthy and almost spicy while in the mouth, there were  pleasant hints of baked apples and stewed fruit. Following this was a wine reminiscent of cherries sprinkled with white  pepper; the 2004 Vacqueyras les Christins by Perrin was a lighter style not-too-tannic Rhône that called for a pleasant  ragoût. The next wine was probably one of the most confusing ones of the evening: New World style from Italy. Oak,  tar, and eucalyptus on the nose, followed by a fairly heavy mouth of stewed raspberries coated in toasted oak, who could guess this was a Montepulciano d’Abruzzo? This flight ended with a favourite: an Australian Shiraz-Grenache  from Kilikanoon that retails for under $20! Those who enjoy jammy full-bodied wines will enjoy this one. Eucalyptus,  vanilla, and oak on the nose followed by a full mouth of cassis, and vanilla in a well-integrated oaked package.

The next wines took us back to Europe for the final flight.The first two reds were priced equally yet offered very  different taste patterns. The first, a Rioja Crianza from the scorching 2003 vintage, was well balanced yet quite austere  and presented little fruit on the nose and the palate. The second Galician offering, simply called Pétalos (meaning  petals in Spanish), came from the little known region of Bierzo. Though quite young, it showed promise with its nose  of oak, ripe cherries and white pepper. Its structure suggested a few years in cellar to improve its overall balance;  although there were no clear winners in this flight, this one quite impressed most in attendance. Next, the well-known  Rocca della Macie Riservadi Fizzano did not disappoint with its nose of cassis, cold cuts, and oak. It offered a good  balance of acidity, fruit, and tannins and is a likely candidate for a few years in the cellar. Another Italian followed but  many thought it to be a Rhône-type blend with its spicy red fruit and green pepper nose. Its body could be considered  medium and it had a solid finish of more spices and red berries. The last wine of the flight was also Italian (Principiano  Boscareto Barolo 1999). but because of its musty, corked nose, it was replaced by a very tasty, quite serious Cabernet  Sauvignon from Argentina made by the Lurton brothers. At $20, it displayed fresh berries, eucalyptus, rhubarb, tar,  and a very long and quite tannic finish. Cellaring definitely recommended.

The tasting ended with a somewhat enigmatic Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos since its flavour profile could be considered  quite modern for this type of wine. It exhibited notes of citrus, tree fruit and oak rather than the more traditional honey,  botrytis, and mustiness of lore ... Quite pleasant and refreshing but note traditional.

All in all, this was a fine exploration of the December release with many fine discoveries by Joe Hatz!

Flight 1

• Nicholas Feuillatte, Blanc de Blancs Brut 1999, Champagne, France 009761 $44.95
• Pol Roger Extra Cuvee de Reserve 1998, Champagne, France 989137 $74.95
• Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve, Champagne, France 653634 $54.95
• Bollinger La Grande Annee Champagne 1997, France 145169 $136.95

Flight 2

• Spy Valley Pinot Noir 2004, New Zealand 734681 $24.95
• Perrin, Vacqueyras les Christins 2004, Cotes du Rhône, France 973453 $21.95
• Terra D'Aligi Tolos, Montepulciano d’Abruzzso 2002, Italy 019166 $29.95
• Kilikanoon Killerman's Run, Shiraz/Grenache 2003, Australia 009225 $18.95

Flight 3

• Herencia Remondo la Montesa Rioja Crianza 2003, Spain 674572 $21.95
• Pétalos 2005, Spain 675207 $21.95
• Rocca della Macie Riserva di Fizzano Chianti Classico Riserva 2001, Italy 699454 $31.95
• Ornellaia le Volte 2004, Italy 964221 $24.95
• Gran Lurton Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, Argentina 980344 $19.95

Flight 4

• Chateau Dereszla Tokaij Aszu 5 puttonyous 2000, 500ml 012203 $33.95