Scuola Italiana – The Italian Northeast Wine Regions – Part 2 Print
Reported by Jim Gallivan

In another in his series on Italian wines, Guild Director Antonio Mauriello led a tasting of the wines from the lesser  known regions of Northeastern Italy, Trentino/Alto Adige, Friuli/Venezia Giula, Lombardia, and Emilia Romagna.

The evening started with a Lambrusco from Emilia Romagna served with a Parmigiano Reggianno. The Lambrusco  was a frizzante, dark red, and fruity wine with aromas of fresh grapes and cranberries—a light quaffer on a winter  evening.

ImageThe first flight featured whites. The first was a  Tramin Sauvignon Blanc from Alto  Adige—hardly a well known Italian grape,  although apparently quite common in the area.  It was almost a typical New Zealand Sauvignon  Blanc with a herbaceous nose and clean finish.  The second wine, and overall favourite of the  flight, was a La Tunella Pinot Grigio from the  Colli Orientali del Friuli. The nose was wet  wool and almonds. On the palate it was slightly  sweet with a rounded mouthfeel and acidic  finish. The third wine was a La Due Torri Tocai  Friuliano from Grave. This was an oaked wine  and the heaviest of the flight, although heavy is  light in comparison. The wine had light caramel  and nutty tones, with good body and a mineral finish.

The second flight featured a 2003 Barbera from Lombardia and two 2003 Sangioveses from Emilia Romagna. The  Barbera from Autari in Oltrepo Pavese was a heavy wine, a deep opaque red with a complex fruity nose and a dry,  dusty finish. It drank nicely, but will age as well. The Sangioveses were from La Berta in Romagna, the western part of  Emilia Romagna. The first was the regular bottling and the second (Solana) was the Riserva. The first was fruity with  floral notes, and had a relatively light body and a tannic finish. The second was much heavier with a dark cherry,  peppery nose, and again, a good finish. It was the favourite of the flight.  

ImageThe third flight started with a 2004 Teroldego  Rotaliano from Foradori in Trentino Alto  Adige—hardly a well known grape, although it  seems to be worthy of its own DOC. It was  somewhat closed, but opened up to notes of  cherry chocolate, coffee, and leather. It had  good tannins and a long finish. The next two  wines were Sangioveses from Emilia Romagna,  a 1999 Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore  Riserva from Drei Dona and a 2001 IGT Forli  from Castelluccio. The 1999 had a cherry nose,  with smoky, medicinal notes. The high alcohol  (14%) gave it a somewhat jammy flavour, but it  had good acid to balance. The 2001 had a  coconut, rich chocolate, mocha nose overlaying  loads of fruit with lots of tannins. This wine has  many years ahead of and was the favourite of  the flight.

ImageThe fourth flight featured two Nebbiolos, or Chiavennascas as they are  known in the region, from Valtellina Superiore DOC in Lombardia, and  a Malbek and Cabernet from Friuli Venezia Giulia. The first Nebbiolo  was a 1999 Sassella Riserva with a nose of cherry and truffles, a  medium body and a dry, acidic finish. The second was a 1978 Inferno  with a nose of dried flowers and violets. It was amber with a medium to  light body. The finish had softened, but still retained acidity. For those  who want bargain Barolos, these wines are a great deal. Unfortunately  the Malbek had a leaking cork and was madeirized. The Cabernet del  Piave was a 1973. It was dark brown with raisin nose—like PX without  the cloying sweetness. It was the favourite of the flight and matched the foods.

The wines were matched with cheeses, meats and olives. The cheeses  were a Parmigiano Reggiano (a DOP from Emilia-Romagna) with the  aperitif and second flight, and a Taleggio (a DOP from the region of  Lombardia) with third and fourth flight. The meats were a Bresaola  della Valtellina (a DOP from the region of Lombardia) with second  flight, and a Prosciutto di Parma (a DOP from the region of Emilia-  Romagna) with third and fourth flight. A mix of green and black olives  from Puglia and Greece accompanied all flights, except for Veneto, because the North-East does not produce many olives.

Antonio is to be commended for organizing another interesting and educational tasting. With wines ranging from  international varieties (Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet) to little known local grapes such as Teroldego, the slide show,  and the foods to match, this was another enjoyable and informative evening.

Starter
  • Castelvetro, Chiarli, , Emilia Romagna, DOC Lambrusco $8

Flight 1
  • Sauvignon Blanc, Tramin, 2005, Trentino Alto Adige, Sudtirol DOC (or Alto Adige  DOC), 12.5% alc. (Sauvignon Blanc) 531822 $16
  • Pinot Grigio, La Tunella, 2005, Friuli Venezia Giulia, COF DOC (Colli Orientali del  Friuli), 13% alc. (Pinot Grigio)  13250 $15
  • Tocai Vigneto le Cocche, Le Due Torri, 2005, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Grave DOC,  13.5% alc. (Tocai Friulano)  Est. value  $25
Flight 2
  • Autari, Cantina di Casteggio, 2003, Lombardia, Oltrepo Pavese DOC, 13.5% alc.  (Barbera)  661140 $15
  • Sangiovese, La Berta, 2003, Emilia Romagna, Sangiovese di Romagna DOC, 13.5%  alc. (Sangiovese)  Est. value  $25
  • Solano, La Berta, 2003, Emilia Romagna, Sangiovese di Romagna DOC Superiore  Riserva, 13.5% alc. (Sangiovese)  Est. value  $35

Flight 3
  • Foradori, Elisabetta Foradori, 2004, Trentino Alto Adige, Teroldego Rotaliano DOC,  13% alc. (Teroldego Rotaliano)  712679 $27
  • Pruno, Drei Dona Tenuta La Palazza, 1999, Emilia Romagna, Sangiovese di Romagna  DOC Superiore Riserva, 14% alc. (Sangiovese)  667394 $36
  • Ronco delle Ginestre, Castelluccio, 2001, Emilia Romagna, IGT Forli, 13% alc.  (Sangiovese)  663526 $45

Flight 4
  • Sassella Riserva, Casa Vinicola Pietro Nera, 1999, Lombardia, Valtellina Superiore  DOCG, 13.5% alc. (Nebbiolo (Chiavennasca))  707208 $25
  • Inferno, Enologica Valtellinese, 1978, Lombardia, Valtellina Superiore DOC, 12% alc.  (Nebbiolo (Chiavennasca))  Est. value  $80
  • Rota Badoglio Malbek - Vigna Palazar, Duchi Badoglio, 1974, Friuli Venezia Giulia,  VDT, 12.1% alc. (Malbek)  Est. value  $50
  • Ponte, Cantina Cooperativa di Ponte del Piave, 1973, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Cabernet  del Piave DOC, 12.5% alc. (Cabernet)  Est. value  $100
Last Updated ( Saturday, 03 February 2007 )
 
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