Reported by Rutha Astravas
No one had to be convinced about the theme “Latin Fever”. Members were excited to explore excellent value wines of the huge and well-publicized release. I could not help bringing two Andean wine books to reinforce the regions’ beauty and tourist potential.
While South American wines may be latecomers to Ontario, these countries have been producing wines for several centuries. Many Argentine wines continue to be hand-harvested and nearly organic because arid growing conditions preclude weeds, stress vines, and are pest-free. But Argentina’s economic crisis hampered the export market. Chile, on the other hand, has embraced foreign investment and flying winemakers, irrigation, and modern winemaking techniques. Either way, there are impressive bottles coming from these Andean neighbours.
Jay Hunt put together a wonderful array of crowd-pleasers showcasing Argentina’s famous Torrontes (grapey, perfumed white) and Malbec (typically showing blueberry, smoke, dark berries and fruit, purple tint), and Chile’s Carmenere (chocolate, cedar, leather), in addition to many other noble varieties. Most wines clocked 13.5% to 14.5% alcohol.
The clear favourite (2:1) of the first flight was the Crios de Susana Balbo Torrontes, which had a whiff of smoke on top of typical floral and citrus notes. It was a little hot, and some complained of slight metallic notes. The second favourite was the Alamos (lower mid-range Catena Zapata line, for export) Viognier, which felt a bit flat, but smelled of peachy, tropical fruit and citrus sorbet. No one voted for the juicy, medium-bodied Alamos Sauvignon Blanc (some grapefruit and greenness) and one soul stuck up for the hot, juicy (rather sharp), minerally New Zealand-style Arboleda Sauvignon Blanc by Vina Errazuriz.
Second flight: “not Malbec”. The first three wines were nearly tied, with the Concha y Toro Terrunyo Carmenere topping the list. Many guessed it was a Merlot or Bordeaux-blend, with its lovely cedar, leather, cigar, smoke, and “Baco or Ontario Gamay notes” of dark fruit and green pepper, but the deep colour was not followed by intense tannin structure. Many debated whether and when unripe or green notes/flavours are attractive. Overall they balanced the ripe, high alcohol wines of the flight. The light Alamos pinot noir smelled of cherry jelly, “Ontario Gamay”, delicate vanilla notes, a bit of game, and was ripe and round. In contrast, the Humo Blanco Pinot was “Kim Crawfordesque” or “Northern Italian” (opinions varied considerably), grapey with currants, smokey and chocolaty, acrid, slightly candied/artificial strawberry, with some anise and spice on the sweet finish. The Chakana Bonarda (common table wine grape) failed to impress despite deep extraction, leather, smoke, pencil shavings—there were considerable vegetal notes (many recalled Ontario Baco, Cabernet Franc), paired with over extracted flavours and dying fruit.
Tasters were split among three Malbec. The Norton Malbec Reserva (mass produced wine for export) got the fewest votes despite chocolate and butterscotch notes. It was bitter, unripe, dry, and not very tannic. Many pegged it a Merlot. In contrast, the Viu Manent Reserve Malbec was “Chilean for sure”, complex, balanced, fruity, elegant, with some cedar, oak, and slight sweetness. It had a very long finish and could be expected to develop coffee, candied, Bordeaux-Right-Bank characteristics with aging. The Finca Flichman’s Expresiones Reserve (60% Malbec, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon) was yummy, dry and dusty, could have been a tad riper, and showed nice wood (cedar, chocolate, vanilla), yet remained typically New World. Finally, Bodegas Caro S.A Amancaya Gran Reserva (55% Malbec, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon) was oaky and needed at least 3 years’ aging. It had a curious floral note (camomile?) and initially did not smell like a red wine, but had some anise and currant notes. One remembered how red on the palate: far too tannic and acidic, especially in contrast to the night’s other reds.
Jay could not resist a sweet end to the evening with a 5 putts Tokaji Aszu (Royal Tokaji), which too delicious and distracting to take notes.
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The National Capital Sommelier Guild strongly supports moderate and responsible consumption of wine and spirits. Guild dinner events allow a designated driver to attend at a reduced price. The designated driver will not be served alcohol. Guild tasting events provide and encourage the use of spit buckets.