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Reported by Jim Gallivan
On Super Bowl Sunday a group of diehard Sommelier Guild members gathered at Beckta’s for a serious match-up of wine and food organized by Guild VP Martin Carrière. No grunting, sweaty bodies beating one another up in the rain here (and no nachos and beer), only white table cloths, interesting conversation, and Beckta’s always excellent service.
The evening started with a ‘Cuvée Saint-Flavy’ Brut from Georges Gardet, a Champagne with fine mousse and a light biscuit, yeasty nose with hints of cherry and dried fruit. It was well-balanced with a touch of minerality on the finish. The champagne raised the level of conversation as the fans began to get into the game, which started with an Amuse. The Amuse featured three “dishes”, a warm Smoked Salmon Chowder—a delicate creamy delight with pieces of smoked salmon and cracklings to add texture, a Port Mottled Quail’s Egg with Fig, and a Tuna Negri served with a Rice Cake and Ginger. The aromas and flavours of the Champagne complemented the range of flavours on the plate, while the mousse and acidity cleansed the palate. The chowder was almost overwhelmed, but was saved by the smoked salmon and cracklings. The team was ahead after the first quarter.
The second quarter started with a 2003 Domaine LaLeure-Piot Pernand-Vergelesses, a lightly oaked white Burgundy with aromas of ripe pear and toast, with a well-rounded mouthfeel balanced by good acid and a touch of minerality. The wine was matched with Seared Digby Scallops served on a White Vegetable Purée with Organic Chorizo, Roasted Peppers and Onion Foam, garnished with Pea Shoots and Parsley and Pepper Oil. The scallops were cooked to perfection, and although scallops are often a difficult match, the wine held its own. However, the chorizo and red peppers overwhelmed the wine. The team faltered badly on this one.
The third quarter featured a 2003 Napa Valley Beringer Merlot. The wine —a crowd pleaser— was rich with abundant fruit, soft ripe tannins, and wonderful notes of vanilla and chocolate. The wine was matched with a Pig Cheek Open Ravioli with Organic Mushrooms, and Spinach Pistou, topped a L’Ermite Beu Fondue. The Merlot was perfect match for the mushrooms and fondue, and had the character to balance the fat and crunchy texture of the pig cheeks. From complement to contrast, the team was regaining form. The wine for the fourth quarter was a 2003 Domaine des Relagnes Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Initially closed, it evolved through aromas of spice, pepper, rubber and smoke with a core of sweet ripe fruit. It was well balanced with soft, ripe tannins and a long finish. The match was a Beef Duo with Grilled Angus Striploin (rare) on a bed of Roasted Parsnips and Braised Short Rib (very well-done) on a Sweet Potato Dauphenoise, both served with a Bordelaise Sauce. The wine was a perfect match for both meats—the tannins and spiciness complemented the striploin while the fruit complemented the short ribs. The team definitely back in the game, and going into overtime!
The overtime match was a 2000 ‘Signature’ Cave de Rasteau Vin Doux Naturel, a rich balanced wine with notes of raisins and chocolate, against a Valrhona Chocolate Soufflé, a rich chocolate cake with a creamy dark chocolate center serve with blackberries and cerises de terre. The match was superb. The team definitely won this one. Martin and Chef Dirk McCabe from Beckta’s are to be congratulated for providing a wonderful evening, and selection of wines and foods. This is a game the fans will remember for some time.
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