Reported by Jeri van Leeuwen (food) & James Gallivan (wine)
After a most successful dinner with the whimsical title, “The A&B Dinner of Northern Italy”, one can only hope our host VP Martin Carriere will follow-up with the remaining 24 letters of the alphabet. Planning around Italy’s food- friendly wines should be fairly straight forward unless you decide to marry a salad course with an Amarone della Valpolicella, and then expect each of four wines, prestigious though they may be, to shine and compete favourably with the same dishes. However, our host, Martin, and Chef Sean Murphy proved they were both up to the challenge. And so did the wines.
But let me begin at the beginning, for I want to stress how enjoyable it was to meet in the elegant reception room of the Chelsea Club for an aperitif. Spacious enough to allow for easy movement from one group of old friends to another, this room provides new members with the opportunity of becoming acquainted before sitting down. Very civilized, very important. Two professional servers ensured everyone had a glass in hand, wonderful given that we were enjoying a beautifully chosen extra dry Prosecco, the Foss Marai “Blue Bottle”. This light wine delighted with its peach/pear aromas and touch of sweetness. Unlike many other Proseccos, this one offers a light mousse, rounded mouthfeel, balanced by good acid with a long finish. Lots of compliments from everyone.
Dinner began with a salade composee with aforementioned Amarone della Valpolicella 2003, Valpantena. Typical Italian foods were creatively arranged on the plate: a soft pillow of Prosciutto, a shaving of Parmesan, and sweet dehydrated Grape Tomatoes that sat on a light drift of Rocket greens. As a dressing, Chef Sean Murphy chose to combine Balsamic Molasses and Vanilla Olive Oil, a brilliant combination that married ever so beautifully with the Amarone. Any misgivings I had about a salad course with this wine were immediately dispelled. A beautiful introduction to the courses ahead. The Valpantena Amarone was rich, dense, concentrated with aromas of dried fruits and chocolate. Full-bodied and well-balanced, thoroughly enjoyed by all.
The pasta course offered two different styles of wines from the Piedmont, both from the Nebbiolo grape, a Barolo 1999, Casetta and a Barbaresco 2001, Cantina Produttori. The pasta style was pappardelle with short rib, and marrying these wines with the thyme-perfumed sauce was a good one. The short ribs had been braised in red wine, veal jus, mirepoix and bouquet garni, then reduced to half. This reduction became the fragrant sauce for the pasta. A judicious amount of the signature short rib topped the pasta given the fact that a meat course was to follow. A clever and tasty combination for both wines, although some of us would have preferred the wide homemade pappardelle to have been rolled thinner for this broth-like sauce. The Barolo seemed to be the favourite with its aromas of currants, plum, tar, and leather. Medium-bodied with fine dusty tannis and good acid, it was well-balanced, and possibly because of it being the lighter of the two wines, it married best to the pasta dish. The Barbaresco was rich, with red fruit, plum, and mocha, full-bodied with fine tannins and a good long finish. Truly a memorable wine.
Everyone appreciated the opportunity to compare two Brunello di Montalcinos with the main course. These were a Brunello di Montalcino 1999, Barbi and a Brunello di Montalcino 2000, ‘Val di Suga’, both from Tuscany. The Barbi Brunello is a traditional one, drinking nicely, with aromas of cherry, coffee, nutmeg, cinnamon, leather, very complex, medium-bodied, fine tannins, good acid, and well-balanced with a long finish. The Val di Suga Brunello was very rich and full-bodied, with aromas of ripe dark berries, prunes, chocolate, softer and rounder than the Barbi, ripe tannins, and good acid. Guild President James Bertrand felt this particular Brunello was too young and needed more time. The delicious Veal and Porcini Mushroom Ragout with a Gratin of Fennel gave us a plate of many textures, flavours, and colours, and complimented both Brunellos. Small pieces of dry-roasted veal in a rich, creamy porcini sauce, subtly flavoured with rosemary was accompanied by a fennel gratin made with gorgonzola cheese. The gorgonzola cheese gave a smooth consistency to the fennel and was able to subdue its strong anise flavour. It was interesting that diners were almost evenly divided on their favourite of the two Brunellos, quite possibly because they both were of such a high quality.
This excellent dinner was concluded with a berry flan with a shortbread crust for which our quick-thinking chef deserved much applause. The expected Chocolate Panna Cotta hadn’t set in time (an experience most of us know only too well), but Sean was prepared with an excellent substitute. However, for those of us who were lucky enough to taste the not-quite-set espresso and bitter chocolae panna cotta, it was truly divine. He has to make it again, perhaps for one of those future 24 letters of the alphabet dinners Martin will hopefully plan.
Congratulations to both Martin and Sean for this well-planned dinner.
Here is the list of wines served:
- Foss Marai Prosecco Extra Dry ‘Blue Bottle’, Vento, Italy 729392 $17.95
- Valpantena Amarone Della Valpolicella 2003,DOC (70% Corvina, 25% Rondinella, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon) 981316 $33.95
- Casetta Barolo 1999, DOCG 004523 $33.95
- Barbaresco 2001, DOCG (Cantina Produttori del Barbaresco) 708826 $28.95
- Fattoria Dei Barbi Brunello di Montalcino 1999, DOCG 928028 $41.95
- ‘Val Di Suga’ Brunello di Montalcino 2000, DOCG (375 ml) 687244 $24.95
- ‘Val Di Suga’ Brunello di Montalcino 2000, DOCG (750 ml) 713719 $45.95
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The National Capital Sommelier Guild strongly supports moderate and responsible consumption of wine and spirits. Guild dinner events allow a designated driver to attend at a reduced price. The designated driver will not be served alcohol. Guild tasting events provide and encourage the use of spit buckets.