Reported by Richard Thibodeau

On a lovely mid-June evening, Winemaker Derek Barnett of Lailey Vineyards joined us for a unique tasting of some of his outstanding wines including a blind comparison of his French- and Canadian-oaked wines. Sean Murphy, Chef of the Chelsea Club , prepared special food matches for this event. This event sold out quickly and had an extensive waiting list – a tribute to the reputation of wines, winemaker, chef, and wine-food pairing at the Chelsea Club.

During pauses in the tasting, Derek commented on the wines and wine-making, which you will find in quotes below.

White Flight

Food match: Chickpea pancake with cold-smoked Gaspé Atlantic salmon, capelin roe, mustard and chive oil

2006 Riesling, VQA (dry), VQA Niagara Peninsula, $13.95
A pale wine with lime-citrus, light cream, apricot, and peach with good follow-through, long finish, and balance, even with 9 g/l acid. Attendees felt this wine to be the best match with the salmon.

2006 Sauvignon Blanc, VQA Niagara River, $19.95
A wine with 60% barrel fermentation, it was light in colour, with melon, some vanilla, an alert nose with mineral and green apple. Very fresh and could use some time to mellow.

2005 Chardonnay - French Oak, VQA Niagara River, $24.95
A big nose of tropicals, pineapple with crème brûlée, anise and good structure.

2005 Chardonnay - Canadian Oak, VQA Niagara Peninsula, $24.95
A light gold wine, deepest colour for this flight, showing pineapple, coconut, peach, and cream with a bright finish.

Red Flight 1

Food match: Strudel of oyster, portobello and button mushrooms and Chinese duck liver sausage with a mushroom reduction (absolutely mouth-watering)

2006 Gamay, $13.95 - 100 cases, a surprise
Pale magenta with spice, cedar, pepper, cherry, cranberry, strawberry, and a decent acid bite. (When shall we have a tasting dedicated to Gamay?)

2005 Pinot Noir – French Oak, VQA Niagara Peninsula, $24.95
“PN is difficult young in Ontario. It needs 5 years to soften the tannins and fatten the acid.” Pale red, young, berry, cherry, spice, dry finish, still harsh tannins, acid elevated.

2004 Cabernet Franc – French Oak, VQA Niagara Peninsula, $28.95
“The Cab Franc had long hang-time into November.” Showing green bell pepper, raspberry and cherry fruit, vanilla.

2004 Cabernet Franc – Canadian Oak, VQA Niagara River, $34.95
This wine was more plush than the French oak version and more fruit-forward with green bell pepper, cherry, and herbal notes.

Red Flight 2

Food match: Rare shaved roast beef on crustini with, black sea salt, and a caramelized shallot and Roquefort butter (sooo good)

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon – French Oak, VQA Niagara Peninsula, $24.95-not released yet
Bronze Medal in the 2007 Ontario Wine Awards. Sweet fruit of black currants, blackberries, black pepper, with cherry, chocolate, and upfront tannins.

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon – Canadian Oak, VQA Niagara River, $29.95-not released yet
This had a deeper colour than the French oak with beet, plum, cherry, pomegranate, chocolate, and coffee. It was softer than the French oak as well. “Both of these wines [the above two] were picked 10th November with the only difference in their treatment being the oak.”

2002 Cabernet Franc – Canadian Oak, VQA Niagara River, no longer available (was $34.95)
Derek brought it from his personal cellar. “This is beginning to really show its potential.” With a deep bowl it had big fruit, cherry, chocolate, fresh, big tannins, and chewy – too bad it’s no longer available – glad I have one.

Note: Lailey reds are not filtered, but Derek does fine with egg whites. He is looking forward to making more Syrah, which Derek feels is the perfect match for Canadian Oak. He is confident that, because of the privileged location of the Lailey vineyards, and taking care to bury the vines for winter, the Syrah will survive and flourish.

Dessert Flight

Food match: Filo purse filled with rosewater poached peaches and finished with a pistachio and vanilla bean cream (A perfect match.)

2005 Vidal Icewine, VQA Niagara Peninsula, $27.95 / 200 ml
100% barrel fermented and aged 7 months in barrel. A deep gold with apricot-peach, pineapple, honey, toffee, and good acid. Luscious.

What an evening! Derek and Sean were applauded for their creations and many attendees stayed on to question them. Hopefully we will see this event come again soon, and when it does be sure to reserve your space early.