|
Summer Lunch at Castelgarth Restaurant |
|
|
Sunday, 19 August 2007 |
Reported by Jeri van Leeuwen
It was a perfect August afternoon for the drive to Castelgarth Restaurant at White Lake, a day that many of us will well remember for a variety of good reasons. This cosy Alpine-inspired restaurant, owned by chefs Matthew and Jennifer Brearly, has earned its well deseved fine restaurant reputation in just five short years. Both Matthew and Jennifer are Stratford Chef School graduates, an institution with the highest credentials and standards, and which is very highly regarded by those in the profession. Upon graduating, all things seemed to point to their locating here, since Matthew grew up in the White Lake area. With his father’s farm nearby, fresh meat and vegetables are available daily, and couldn’t be any fresher. This is local produce and garden freshness at its best. This is cuisine at its best.
Warmly greeted at the door by Jennifer, it was not long before chilled glasses of Sauvignon Blanc were offered as our Reception Wine and we began meeting our luncheon companions. An 2004 Henry of Pelham was chosen by Martin Carrière, Guild VP, which proved to be a great summer sipping wine. With great racy acidity and citrus flavours, this grapefruity, minerally aperitif couldn’t have been better for preparing our palates for the adventure ahead. And then the luncheon began, and what an experience it was.
We began with a dish new to all of us and definitely one designed for scallop lovers. Thinly sliced overlapping swirls of scallop carpaccio were presented on a white plate; and this picture of white on white acted as a beautiful background for the fine red and green scattering of chile and cilantro. Elegant and refined. The scallops had been flavoured with zesty lime that counterbalanced the natural creaminess of the scallops which in turn brought out the very best qualities of the scallops. Fresh, clean and sweet tasting, it was a perfect dish for a summer lunch. Equally well chosen was a 2005 Albarino, a DO, from Bodega Nunez Andion in Rias Baixas, Spain. With its glorious fragrance, a bit exotic, it was neither marred nor in competition with any cooking aromas from the food. The high alcohol Albarino is also high in acidity, so it could easily handle the acidity of the lime as well as being a wonderful compliment to the scallops’ creamy texture. The peach and apricot flavours in the wine also benefited from their friendliness with the scallops. Well done. There was discovery in every sip and bite, and gratefully the serving was sufficient to allow us to savour this beautiful new combination in all its nuances.
In the past year, this writer has experienced an unusual amount of duck confit and Castelgarth’s is far and away the best I have had in Ottawa. There was a freshness, plumpness, and meatiness that was a welcome relief from the often dry and stringy offerings that have sadly become the norm in other restaurants. Served simply with quartered new fingering potatoes, fresh sweet corn kernels, and kale, all the vegetables were prepared in a manner that allowed their best qualities to shine through by being lightly sauteed. Since all of these vegetables are in season, having been supplied locally (almost next door), their preparation, sans sauces allowed us to really taste their natural goodness. All in keeping with these two chefs who have the confidence of their convictions and talents.
And then there were the wines—lots of surprises here as well. Matinborough, located in the south of the North Island of New Zealand has become famous for producing beautiful Pinot Noirs very much in the French style. Martinborough is in fact referred to as the Pinot Noir capital of New Zealand. Martin however chose to serve one from Marlborough on the South Island, a 2005 Cooper Creek Pinot, something perhaps few of us would have done. Given all the well-known Pinots from the North Island, we had a chance to experience something few knew anything about. It turned out to be an excellent wine and a fine example of a Pinot Noir, definitely in the French style, for it had the correct colour, aromas, and flavours. A little deeper perhaps in intensity of colour, it bordered on a burnished ruby, and its aromas and flavours were cherry and plum with some spiciness, definitely earthy and a bit composty, much like what one should expect from a Pinot. My only disappointment was its lightness of body and a finish that ended a bit too soon. Several of us thought it an excellent match for the duck.
But, and, then, I tried the second Pinot Noir, this one a 2005 Au Bon Climat from California. It didn't look like a pinot—much too intense, deep, and rich ruby. Furthermore, it didn’t have the aromas of a Pinot that I had come to expect, but whatever it was, I was immediately captured. As Gil Lempert-Schwartz writes in the Vintages Notes, “It is a sexy little wine ... the wine shows great voluptuousness ...” Yes and yes. It is a wine worth savouring thoroughly, swirling in your mouth and enjoying another glass. It is a joyful wine. California allows 10%-20% whole berries in the fermentation vat to add fruitiness and I'm guessing this has to be the most perfect example of the practice. My glass held a marvellous wine, a brilliant deep ruby, with the mingling fresh aromas of ripe, fresh berries. Hints of herbs, beetroot, and minerality came through as well. Great body, voluptuous has been aptly used, and a long fresh berry finish. Would my friends who are Pinot Noir aficionados like this wine, I wondered. But who could not love these beautiful aromas of freshly crushed berries with its silky smoothness? Maybe not the classical, elegant, graceful wine of an Old World Pinot Noir but certainly one that is pleasureful, exuberant, joyful and wildly ... whatever. It seemed to have been created in the same spirit as the duck and vegetables presentation, one that relied on its own integrity, intensity, natural freshness for expression and pleasure-giving ways.
We finished this excellent lunch with a cool lemon pannacotta and fresh, glistening blueberries that had been gently warmed to release a little bit of their juice. A piece of art on a plate. Thoughtfully chosen, this dessert was unpretentious and true to the signature of the composer. Everything had been done to ensure the purity of flavour and freshness of the food, and was so much appreciated.
The meal preparation and presentation challenged what most of us think of when we know talented chefs have an opportunity to impress. These are two chefs who have displayed a great deal of confidence designing this summer luncheon menu. And a great deal of credit goes to Martin, who introduced new and original wines for our tasting, with the resulting nice surprises along the way. He has an obviously natural rapport with the chefs to have so successfully put together this memorable country lunch and a willingness to dare with the wine choices. |
|
Last Updated ( Sunday, 16 September 2007 )
|
|
|
Moderation |
 The National Capital Sommelier Guild strongly supports moderate and responsible consumption of wine and spirits. Guild dinner events allow a designated driver to attend at a reduced price. The designated driver will not be served alcohol. Guild tasting events provide and encourage the use of spit buckets. |
"Wine is the most civilized thing in the world."
— Ernest Hemingway
|
|
|
