Reported by Rutha Astravas

The Chelsea Club was filled with excited tasters for this epic tasting led by Luc Bouchard (photo at right), from Bouchard Pere & Fils (est. 1713) and represented by Jason Woodman of Woodman Wines & Spirits Inc. Overall it was a very impressive and highly educational tasting. A very big thank you goes out to the Domaine, Woodman Wines and Director Pierre Fournier.

The evening began with a history of the Bouchard family. Bouchard Pere et Fils were the founders and Bouchard Aine (from the same family) joined four generations later. The domaine also grew considerably through a series of land acquisitions in the Cote d’Or. Currently its 130 hectares of vineyards include a remarkable 74ha of 1er Cru and 12ha of Grand Cru. Other important developments include a significant 1995 investment which improved the quality of the wine, and in 2005, the opening of a new state of-the-art winery during their 275th anniversary, further enhancing the quality and breadth of their portfolio.

This event focused on the great 2005 vintage, which in the Cote d’Or was dry with no excessive heat, with a long sunny summer ideal for both chardonnay and pinot noir. It was also the first year since 1989 when whites were harvested before the reds. Chardonnay had very good maturity, skins and pips, so longer pressing was possible. New barrels were used, with long alcoholic fermentation, rich aromas, developing from white-fleshed fruit towards citrus and floral notes. The whites have intense purity, salinity and expression of soils.

The 2005 Chablis whites (William Fevre) were also very rich, but continue to have a good freshness and aromatic purity, good structure, concentration and minerality.

Cote d’Or reds in 2005 were perfectly mature with thick skins, with initial and pronounced raspberry, blackcurrant, blueberry and blackberry flavours. Following long vatting, deep, intense red fruit, structure and persistency developed. There were long malolactic fermentations but these did not affect the freshness and salinity (due to a dry summer). These young wines already have a lot of depth and potential for ageing. Bottling of 2005 is almost complete.

While the 2004 vintage was called a pleasant and “winegrower’s vintage” (Indian summer), the 2006 vintage in the Cote d’Or is a “viticulturist vintage” of inconsistent weather and therefore need for great skill. This year was another early (August 23) harvest, due to early flowering. Contrary to popular practice, the red wines were served first so that the acidity of the whites does not affect one’s experience of the delicate reds.

1st flight Pinot Noir

Bourgogne Pinot Noir La Vignee 2005
LCBO 605667 $17.75
A soft nose of cherry and cranberry notes, orange peel and minerals. Good acidity and minerality, medium finish, some warmth and ripe tannins. Would develop over the next several years.

Cote de Beaune Villages 2005
Vintages 714998 $24.95
Very dark blend of southern Cote parcels. Intense perfume of red fruits, strawberries and orange blossom, hint of oak. Delicate tannins, intense richness with a medium persistency and a ‘classic’ finish.

Beaune du Château Rouge 2005 1er Cru Domaine Bouchard Pere et Fils
Vintages (November 2007) 901199 $41.95
The favourite by far, but not without controversy. Half matured in new French oak. Intense strawberry, floral, earthy, and wooded nose. “Full-bodied” pinot with great balance of acidity, tannin and warmth, although somewhat short. Left to develop, oak aroma intensified.


2nd flight Pinot Noir

Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvee Carnot 2005 Domaine Bouchard Pere et Fils
Vintages 43240 $86.96
The 1er cru’s name alludes to ‘royal’ property or stones, and is the Domaine’s favourite, and Guild’s second favourite. It has nice exposure mid-slope, develops “amazing maturity” and is harvested first. 90% new oak, rich and complex, lots of fruit and spice on the nose and palate. Well-structured, rich, and full, touted one of Volnay’s best 1er cru.

Nuits Saint Georges Les Porrets Saint Georges 2005
Vintages (November 10, 2007) 974014 $103.00, also for private order.
This 1er cru parcel is adjacent to les Cailles. A timid bouquet with a curious caramelized banana note, vanilla, smoke, and some fruit. Solid structure with good, mature tannins, 85% new oak.

Beaune Greves Vigne de L’Enfant Jesus 2005 1er Cru Domaine Bouchard Pere et Fils
Vintages (October 13, 2007) 43257 $103.00
Hands-down favourite. A historic label (since 1865), named for its Carmelite heritage and its “stronger effect than prayer”. Exciting fruit and spice, wood, smoke. Very complex and very full, beautiful mouth feel, long ageing potential. Were we in heaven??

Pommard 2003 Domaine Bouchard Pere et Fils
consignment $54.95
Another well-liked wine, but from a sweltering vintage with an August 20th harvest. Production was down by 40% but greatly expressed different terroirs. Dusty, ripe, and jammy fruit, especially dark cherries and raspberries, light mocha notes, picked early to maintain acidity (and prevent scorched berries and 15%+ alcohol). “California” style with lots of ripe tannin and extraction.


3rd flight Chablis – tied for favourite

Chablis Domaine William Fevre Champs Royaux 1er Cru 2006
LCBO 276436 $21.10
First time Chablis was harvested before the Cote d’Or. Challenging parcel in the heart of the region. Honey, melon, leafy, and citrus notes, striking minerality on nose and palate, hints of oak, but pale and watery.

Chablis Domaine William Fevre Beauroy 1er Cru 2005 consignment
(in transit, $39.95 est.) (Vaillons 1er Cru will also be released – its style is said to be more fruity and floral)
Another early harvest, good exposures. Delicate bouquet, baked apple, pear, floral, chalky notes. Very nice mouth feel and weight, seamless finish.


4th flight Chardonnays

Pouilly Fuisse 2006
LCBO 56580 $26.20
Classic bouquet, some interesting notes flowers, tropical fruit and a bit of smoke. Medium body, acid balance, best drunk young.

Rully 2004
consignment $26.50
Excellent value. Pleasing honey, sweet pea, apricot caramel/toffee, tropical notes contrasted with smoke and beeswax. Juicy, lots of minerals (most production here is for cremant de Bourgogne). It was the second favourite.

Beaune du Château 1er Cru Blanc 2005 Domaine Bouchard Pere et Fils
Vintages (March 2008) 901207 $39.95
The favourite of the flight. Loud wine with surprising amounts of acid (more than in 2002). A rare white from an area of reds, grown in pebbly marly limestone. Very intense, white floral honeysuckle and vanilla notes. Very rich and smooth, good fruit (especially apples), with good minerality and acid. Could stand up to fish in cream sauce.

Meursault Genevrieres 2004 Domaine Bouchard Pere et Fils
Vintages (March 2008) 46532 $82.00 (N.B. The
2005 MG will be available at Vintages (November 2007) 705970 $88.00) Another solid crowd-pleaser, this 1er cru showed some muted white fruit, smoke, and oak and is the Domaine’s favourite. Classic style: silky, with good amounts of acid, but not unusual or exciting.