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| December 2005 Vintages Pre-Release |
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Reported by Richard Thibodeau Quick Picks
There was the usual full-house for the December VPR. We tasted a total of fourteen wines, and while there was a very good selection of highly rated wines, there were a few disappointing ones and one particularly stunning example of a wine that, as the saying goes, has a message, and that message is beware. As usual, all wines were tasted blind. The white flight began with a gold-coloured chardonnay that had pineapple, mango, anise, and butterscotch in the nose, but in taste returned only oak with little fruit and acid in the finish. This was the disappointing Stratus Barrel-Fermented Chardonnay 2002, which at a price of $32, was agreed by everyone to represent poor value. The second white was the L’Ecole Semillon (86% Semillon, 14% Sauvignon Blanc) from Washington State. A pale colour with pronounced smoke, it also gave lime, grapefruit, and chalk in both nose and mouth. It had a high acid/citrus finish but also exhibited a metallic taste and what one taster described as tuna, another as salmon. Overall, it was not liked. The Alsatian Gewürztraminer was a light gold, with the seductive aromas and taste of roses, lychee, and mineral. It was smooth in the mouth with a long finish of roses. The pale Riesling Auslese that concluded the white flight was sweet on the nose with ripe peaches and slate and the characteristic oily-petrol aroma we love (Don’t we?). It had good follow-through on the palate with a medium-length finish, however it could have used some more acid. The first red flight began with the BC’s Quail’s Gate Merlot 2003. This was deemed good value for $20. It was a deep red with big extract. On the nose it gave a slight alcohol, with deep fruit of black cherry, smoke, and vanilla. It was also hot on the tongue but with good cherry and oak, a long pleasing smoky after-taste. The Stratus Cabernet Franc 2002 followed with a deep red colour and big extract. A different flavour profile however, with that big green bell pepper and sour cherry and strawberry, with meds and chalk. In the taste, oaky wood overpowered the cherry-berry fruit and there was a bitter aftertaste with what appeared to be high acid. This was another disappointment from Stratus. The Meerlust Bordeaux-style blend (70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc) was opaque with interesting aromas of cinnamon, meds, ink, and iodine. There was red fruit on the palate but also a bit of sour fruit in this chewy wine. The best value at a price of only $14.95 was arguably the Gran Verema ‘Old Vines” Tempanillo 2000 which kicked-off the second red flight—the Old Vines Flight. It was deep red with a nose of cherry, with light florals and cherry on the taste and a pleasant wine if a bit light on tannin. The Cline Ancient Vines Carignane 2004 was purple-young with a big extract showing citrus, cherry, and raspberry on the nose with cherry, licorice, and bacon on the palate. A smooth soft nice fruit finish with good tannin and acid. The Cline Ancient Vines Zinfandel 2004 was another big one with an in-your-face sweet cherry fruit and florals. This was delicious with good acid, tannins, and a long finish. The last red flight started off with the Chilean Cot Reserva 2003 from Pérez Cruz. Dark red, it provided big cherry, plum, and florals with menthol, mint, iodine, and a touch of saltiness. The Torbreck Woodcutter’s Shiraz 2004 was another dark red stewed fruit, vanilla, and minerals. It was full-bodied with lots of big fruit and earthiness and elevated tannins. Both the Cot and the Shiraz were favourites. Sometimes one comes across a wine that makes one wonder what the winemaker was thinking. Such was the Travaglini Gattinara 2000. Light red in colour with no discernible fruit—all earth, smoke, and tar. Did I mention it was lacking in fruit? Not a hint of fruit for $33; hence—beware—maybe it was just that one bottle—but why take the chance? From the ridiculous to the sublime, the Antinori Brunello 1999 was the epitome of harmony and balance in a wine. Full-bodied and dark red with seductive blackberry and spice, chocolate, earth, and well-integrated tannins. This is a wine for the cellar, and a great delight. It was a wonderful ending to the tasting. Here’s the line-up: Flight 1 Stratus Chardonnay Barrel Fermented, 2002, VQA Niagara Peninsula 665182 $32.00 L’Ecole No. 41 Semillon Barrel Fermented, 2004, Columbia Valley, Washington State, USA 982157 $24.95 François Bléger Gewurztraminer Vieille Vigne, 2004, AC Alsace, France 972570 $19.95 Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler Riesling Auslese, 2003, QmP, Bernkasteler Badstube, Estate Btld., Germany 678011 $35.95 Flight 2 Quails’ Gate ‘Limited Release’ Merlot, 2003, VQA Okanagan Valley 639633 $19.95 Stratus Cabernet Franc, 2002, VQA Niagara Peninsula 665034 $32.00 Meerlust ‘Rubicon’, 2000, WO Stellenbosch, South Africa 983635 $39.95 Flight 3 Vincente Gandia Gran Verema ‘Old Vines’ Tempranillo Reserva, 2000, DO Utiel-Requena, Spain 660548 $14.95 Cline ‘Ancient Vines’ Carignane, 2004, Contra Costa County, California, USA 943142 $19.95 Cline ‘Ancient Vines’ Zinfandel, 2004, California, USA 719211 $24.95 Flight 4 Pérez Cruz Cot Reserva, 2003, Estate Bottled, Limited Edition, Maipo Valley, Chile 670547 $22.95 Torbreck ‘Woodcutter’s’ Shiraz, 2004, Barossa Valley, South Australia 927533 $19.95 Travaglini Gattinara, 2000, DOCG, Italy 658385 $32.95 Antinori Pian Delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino, 1999, DOCG, Italy 651141 $61.95 |
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