The next plate was the Foie Gras du Canard with a Caramelized Pineapple Wafer and Blood Orange Risotto, accompanied by two wines: a 2006 Pinot Noir from Alamos in Argentina; and a 2003 Bordeaux from Chateau Poitevin. Several at my table were not sure that either was an especially good match for the confit, though of the two, the Pinot Noir was the best. This wine was the second bargain for the evening, selling in the low-teens. It showed some of the usual Pinot Noir characteristics, with raspberries and violets on the nose and cherries, plums, and dried fruit on the palate; some thought it lacked the depth and sense of terroir that many expect in Pinot Noir, but given its price it was worth the purchase. The Bordeaux was also good, with dark cherries, leather and a bit of chocolate on the palate. For under $20, this is also a good value, but probably too robust for delicate foie gras. Of the various plates on offer that evening, this one was my favourite. The rich texture and delicate flavours of the foie gras showed well against the risotto.
We were then presented with the main course: a seared Mariposa Duck Farm breast with its natural jus and a pomegranate glaze. Also on the plate were roast fingerling potatoes with rosemary and smoked rock salt along with bundles of asparagus, red peppers, and carrots tied together with a string of sweet potato. This dish was matched with two wines: a 2004 Merlot from Beringer in Napa Valley; and a 2005 Premier Cru Beaune de Château from Bouchard Père & Fils. The Beringer Merlot showed well on its own, with cloves and ripe fruit on the nose and plums, cedar, and perhaps some nutmeg on the palate and a long finish. There was some debate at my table as to whether or not it was a good match for the duck. Many agreed, however, that this wine does well on its own. Sadly, the Burgundy was closed on the nose and palate. Many were hoping/expecting it would be an excellent match for the duck (as Pinot Noir so often is), but it was probably too early for this particular wine. Many thought the dish was good, though the duck was slightly over-cooked for some. The layer of fat remaining on the duck breast was nicely seasoned and was thought to help considerably by doing what fat does best: retain moisture and flavour.
As noted above, the more disciplined among us had kept some of the Champagne to drink throughout the meal. Some thought that, after all was eaten and drunk, the Champagne was extremely versatile and was probably the best overall match for every dish.
The meal was finished with an espresso chocolate mousse, accompanied by blueberries, whipped cream, a mixed fruit compote, a raspberry purée thickened with agar agar and warm(!) pistachio biscotti. The warm biscotti was a big hit as was the fruit compote. Several also thought the thickened raspberry purée was interesting and innovative as well.
Tulips & Maple once again provided a very good setting for a Guild dinner. Chef Andrew Skorzewski and his staff deserve our thanks for putting on a dinner that reminds one how versatile and tasty duck can be. And with the Mariposa Duck Farm so close at hand, high quality duck is easy to come by in Ottawa. Guild Director Martin Carrière has organized (yet another!) excellent dinner allowing Guild members to sample a wide range
of wines, some of which are excellent values.
Servers Brian and Breanne quickly presented the first plate—Duck Confit Wonton Tortillas and Hydroponic Micro Greens served with Cilantro Crème Fraiche. While the confit was a hit, and the texture/ temperature of the greens provided a pleasant contrast, one participant did note that the cilantro was hard to detect. The accompanying wine was a 2006 Pouilly- Fumé from Domaine Christian Salmon in the Loire Valley. The nose had pleasant notes of melon, while the palate showed dry fruit and citric notes. Several at my table thought it a surprisingly good pair with the duck, with the wine’s acid showing itself to be a good (but not over-powering) match to the fat in the confit.