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| Kacaba Vineyards Tasting |
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| Thursday, 01 May 2008 | |
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Reported by Nora Thompson Guild members were treated to a wine tasting evening, presented by Michael and Joanne Kacaba, owners of Kacaba Vineyards, located on the Niagara Escarpment Bench in Vineland, Ontario. Michael proved to be an informative and “honest” winemaker, entertaining the members with stories of start-up mishaps and unexpected successes.  The vineyard was bought in 1997 and planted in 1998. Its geographic location benefits from a micro-climate with circular airflow, providing winter protection from frost, plus very deep clay/loam soil. This soil eliminates the need for irrigation, and allows for a vine root depth of up to 30 feet that increases the vines’ survival in many drought situations. All grapes are hand-tended and hand-picked as Kacaba strives to produce value-added, quality wines and the Guild was to taste several grape varieties including Chardonnay, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot.A flight of Chardonnay was delivered first, a selection of unoaked, oaked, and barrel-aged styles (there is a difference!). The first Chardonnay tasted was a 2007 unoaked Chardonnay, which underwent cool fermentation, no malolactic fermentation and bottled early. Flavours of citrus, mineral came through with slight residual sugar which gave the wine, according to one member, a Riesling feel to it. The next Chardonnay was a 2006, Sur Lie, yeasty and caramel in flavour, a definite contrast to the first. The next two 2006’s were from the same vineyard, same vintage and harvested under the same conditions. One was “oak aged” and the other was barrel aged; Michael did point out, with complete honesty, that “oak aged” means aging with the use of oak chips which gives the wine its upfront oak and vanilla aroma and taste. Once the fifth and last Chardonnay was tasted in the flight, a barrel-fermented 2006, it was clearly evident that this was the cream of the flight. It offered up a well-balanced and integrated taste of oak, fruit, acidity, supple in the mouth, the most expensive of the flight at $25.95, but definitely the best. Michael did elaborate on the difference between the oak chips and barrel aging, stressing the differences in cost, very cheap to buy oak chips, which are added several times during the process, versus the expense of purchasing French and American oak barrels that cost from between $500 to $1200 per barrel. However, the slow aging process in the barrel is what gives the wine its subtle aromas/complexities as the wine evaporates and oxidizes over time in the barrels. He does have concerns over manufactured or “substitute” flavours in wines and the way these are achieved, with tannins that are extracted from other sources (i.e., chestnuts), which deliver an upfront oak/wood flavour, but rapidly break down once exposed to the air, becoming bitter and unbalanced. A vertical flight of Syrah was next, from 2001 to 2007, with 2006 omitted because it’s not yet ready for tasting! Michael’s foray into sourcing Syrah was most adventurous—he initially purchased “green-growing” vines from Sonoma, but after much paperwork to obtain the required license, it proved difficult to transport back to Ontario. United Airlines came through, although 26 of the 55 boxes ended up in Dallas, the remainder in Toronto! He now buys Syrah from France. The first wine was the 2001, the “Mystery Wine”, that offered up a pungent odour that most members found offputting and unpleasant—it was revealed that this wine had “LadyBug” taint. Not all consumers are put off by this tainted wine however: Kacaba sold 25 cases to one customer! The members generally agreed that 2002 showed good spice, black fruit, smoke, lively acidity, and good fruit, the 2003 was the lightest of the flight in colour, almost Italian in flavour, with higher acidity due to the cooler growing season, but members felt it would be a good match with tomato-based pasta dishes. The 2004 Syrah was recovering from a harsh winter in 2003, so vines under-went extensive pruning and leaf-pulling—the result was a peppery wine with good acidity balanced by fine black fruit. The 2005 was a barrel sample displaying good tannins and fruit, members thought it was a balanced wine with good concentration—it was the only barrel made as these vines suffered a devastating winter frost that stressed many vines. The best of the flight was the 2007, showcasing more fruit and smoothness than the 2005 even now due to a long, hot, dry growing season.  Next up was the “Bordeaux Groupings” a selection of Meritage, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2004 Meritage was a 50% split between Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon—it was oak aged (chips) but members thought that this masked the Cabernet Franc variety. The second 2004 Meritage was harvested in early November to maximize grape hang-time, spent 2 years in mixed barrels, and was an equal blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. This was a softer, more Bordeaux-ish style of wine than the first, spicy, with better balance between fruit and tannins. A Merlot from 2004 was tasted next, it spent 2 years in American Oak of which 60% were new. This wine displayed good integrated oak, fruit, pepper, and acidity—it would be a very foodfriendly wine to drink now.A medal winner was up next, Kacaba’s 2004 Cabernet Franc, which won a Bronze medal at the Ontario Wine Awards. Members found this wine to be peppery, smoky with aromas of graphite, flavours of raspberry, and good tannins. The Cabernet Sauvignons were saved for last, as Michael believes that a winery style and quality is judged by its success with this grape variety. The 2004 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, at $34.95 per bottle, was tasted first; it was found to be a well-balanced red wine, good integration of acid, tannins, and fruit. Ending the evening was the 2002 Proprietor’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, harvested on November 4 at 23.5 Brix. This wine was the highlight of the evening. Members thoroughly enjoying the aromas of black fruit, coffee, and eucalyptus, which all combined in a wonderful harmonious blend of fruit, acid, tannins, and lovely silky body. It is not for the faint of heart with a price tag of $120 per bottle! Michael ended the tasting by giving his views on the wine industry in Ontario and the difficulties faced by smaller producers to obtain shelf space in the LCBO or to even sell in the Toronto market. Many Niagara wineries are selling more wine in Calgary and British Columbia than Ontario. But he emphasized that there is a tremendous spirit of cooperation between the Niagara wineries and in the future, Kacaba is looking to produce Viognier, to blend with Syrah in the Rhone Style. Board member Rutha Astravas thanked Michael and Joanne Kacaba on behalf of the Guild for an interesting and informative Ontario/Niagara wine tasting. She especially thanked Michael for bringing out his very special wines and for his honesty in disclosing some “secrets” of the winemaker’s trade! Flight One
Flight Two
Flight Three
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| Last Updated ( Monday, 09 June 2008 ) |
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| Moderation |
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 The National Capital Sommelier Guild strongly supports moderate and responsible consumption of wine and spirits. Guild dinner events allow a designated driver to attend at a reduced price. The designated driver will not be served alcohol. Guild tasting events provide and encourage the use of spit buckets. |
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