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Spanish Dining with the Wines of Miguel Torres |
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Tuesday, 23 September 2008 |
Reported by François Bélisle
This lovely evening took place in the upstairs dining room of El Meson Restaurant. The size of the group (20) contributed to the coziness of the evening. Participants were greeted with a glass of Torres Pinot Noir Brut Reserva de Familia, a delicious Chilean méthode traditionnelle and the only Torres wine of the evening that was produced outside of Spain. Though not inexpensive ($27), this bubbly measures up favourably to many Champagnes twice the price. An leesy bouquet, fine and abundant bubbles, good body and good complexity made for a great evening starter.
The chilled, earthy red-colored Gazpacho Andaluz was good and, as always, a very healthy choice to start the dinner (though it’s more customary to eat gazpacho on very hot summer days). It was accompanied by the 2006 Viña Sol Chardonnay (15% Parellada) from Penedès, a pleasant Chardonnay with lovely oak and tropical notes on the nose and a mid-weight palate. However, many felt that the wine, delicious on its own, has some difficulty standing up to the cumin-laced gazpacho.
Then came the Dueto de Sardinhas, a pair of Portuguese grilled sardines that were served lukewarm and moist. The pairing with the 2006 Mas Borràs was excellent. Mas Borràs is a gorgeous Pinot Noir that is somewhere between new world and old world in style—a beautiful balance between fruit and structure. Though it can certainly age a few more years, few had any objection to drinking it now! In a world of overpriced Pinot Noir, it constitutes solid value ($26).
The main dish was Paella Valenciana, served in individual paella dishes. Offering a piece of chicken and a piece of chorizo in addition to a good array of seafood, it was well presented, appetizing and quite tasty. Three very good red wines had been selected to accompany the paella: the 2004 Celeste, a solid and well-balanced Tempranillo from Ribera del Duero ($20); the 2005 Salmos, a sturdy and flavourful blend of Garnacha, Syrah, Cariñena, and Cabernet Sauvignon from Priorat that still has a good life ahead of itself ($33); and the perennially magnificent, rich and complex Mas La Plana Cabernet Sauvignon, this one from the very hot 2003 vintage which makes it more approachable in its youth. Mas La Plana ($45) continues to provide solid value among premium wines. Though all three reds were high in quality and delicious on their own, it would have been interesting to match a big white and probably also a rosé with the paella.
The dessert, Crema Catalana, was well made and tasty with a lemon-scented caramelized crust. At the end of the meal, El Meson owner José Alves came out to chat with the group and revealed some of his secrets for running one of Ottawa’s most distinctive and enduring restaurants (21 years at that location!).
A big thank you to Guild Vice-President Martin Carrière for organizing this lovely evening and offering, as always, excellent wines and good value to the participants. |
