Ottawa's Premier Wine Appreciation Organization - National Capital Sommelier Guild

Gems of South Africa

Friday, 16 January 2009

Reported by Donald Cumming and Penny Napke

It was a dark and stormy night, and a few intrepid souls braved the elements to reach the Vendange Institute in time for the first tasting of the new year and the first in this new facility for the Guild. With a spread of about 60°C separating the temperature in Ottawa from that in Cape Town we were eager to sample the “gems”.

Guild director Robert White had been collecting wines over several releases in 2008 and together with a couple from his own cellar produced an interesting offering. South Africa is known for diamonds. But this country produces other gems as well, and one of them is its wines. The Cape’s wine culture goes back 350 years and from that long history comes a wine tradition of tastes and styles with its roots in the classic old world styles. South Africa ranks as the worlds ninth largest producer with 3.3% of global production. France (17.3%) and Italy (16.5%) are still number one and two. Another point of comparison for Canadians is that Niagara has 670 hectares under cultivation compared to South Africa’s 100, 000 hectares.

There were three flights, one white and two reds. The first of the whites was the L’Avenir Chenin Blanc. Chenin Blanc varietal is one of the country's biggest strengths and L'Avenir's vineyards produce some of the best examples. The 2007 had aromas of apples, pears, a mixed bouquet of flowers, and citrus notes. It was rich and fresh with a refreshing acidity to balance the fruit flavours. The next two were both Sauvignon Blanc— neither received any great endorsement. The Cathedral Cellars (#2) is a good summer sipper and the Boschendal (#3) won Double Gold honours at South Africa's prestigious Veritas awards in 2007. Astute tasters recognized the Mulderbosch Rose (#4). Despite being well recognized not a single vote as favourite wine! Perhaps sampling summer’s best wines on a night such as this one was just too much for the Ottawa crowd.

Now on to the reds. With the promise of a great Pinotage hidden somewhere everyone was out to find a hint of that grape in almost every glass. The Lamond Merlot (#5) is from the Cape Agulhas Region which is the southernmost wineproducing region in Africa. Located 8 km from the ocean, the maritime breezes make it the coolest ripening area in South Africa. It had smooth red fruits on the nose but failed to get much support. The next two were focussed on Shiraz. The 100% Shiraz Nederberg Manor House (#6) was old world style and a lovely Shiraz that was full of rich flavours. The Black Rock Red (#7) is a fine Rhône away from home and is comprised of 66% Shiraz, 13% Carignan, 11% Mourvedre, 9% Grenache and 1% Viognier. Staying old-world is the fine and inexpensive ($16) South African Bordeaux blend, the Tumara Titian (#8). This savoury red wine is made of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 10% Malbec, 5% Petit Verdot, and 4% of Cabernet Franc and featured blackcurrant, cedar, vanilla and a hint of eucalyptus. Still no Pinotage in sight.

True to guild form the last flight looked deeper, darker and distinctly more interesting. Three Cabs in a row. The Nederberg Manor House Cabernet Sauvignon (#9) did not disappoint. If you are looking for a well-made Cabernet with good balance among fruit, acid, and tannins, this may be one for you, at a good price point too. The Starke-Conde (#10) is over 90% Cab with a bit of Merlot and Cab Franc. Nice, but no takers on this Ottawa night. The third, Cathedral Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon (#11), is a regular gate crasher to the Vintages release party. It delivers consistent value in a classy Cab from the Cape that is loaded with aromas of cassis, cherry, violets, smoky oak, and savoury herbs.

Finally the Pinotage! Since the first wine from Tukulu was launched in 1999, the range has received widespread international and local acclaim winning coveted places on the ABSA Top Ten Pinotage list four times as well as several Veritas gold medals. (The ABSA Top Ten and Veritas competitions are both South African annual wine events.) It was well received despite a nose showing distinct rancio and obvious effects of oxidation. Perhaps another bottle would have delivered the goods?

What about the cost of the wines? Low-end Sauvignon Blanc (#2 at $9.95) and high-end Black Rock (#7 at 23.95). The rest in the $14 to $19 range.

The general feeling of those present was that the location is a fine one and will serve the Guild well. There was much discussion about the facility as well as on the new event management process and system that will be coming on stream soon.

Thanks to Robert for organizing and valiantly delivering the tasting, despite having his olfactory senses shut down due a winter cold. Thanks also to the Guild for staging an event at a new location that went smoothly and provided a taste of South African gems.

The wines:

Flight 1
L’Avenir Chenin Blanc, 2007, WO Stellenbosch, $19.95, 72645
Cathredal Cellar Sauvignon Blanc, 2006, WO Western Cape, $9.95, 662718
Boschedal Reserve Collection Sauvignon Blanc, 2007, WO Coastal Region, $16.95, 82438
Mulderbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Rose, 2007, WO Stellenbosch, $12.95, 999821

Flight 2
Lomond Merlot, 2005, WO Cape Agulhas, $19.95, 68478
Nederburg Manor House Shiraz, 2006, WO Coastal Region, $16.95, 68775
Black Rock Red, 2006, WO Swartland, $23.95, 68502
Bellevue Tumara Titan, 2003, WO Stellenbosch, $15.95, 922211

Flight 3
Nederburg Manor House Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006, WO Paarl, $16.95, 68767
Stark-Conde Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005, WO Stellenbosch , $19.95, 68460
Cathedral Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon, 2001, WO Coastal Region, $16.95, 328567
Tukulu Pinotage, 2007, WO Darling, $21.95, 68700

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