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Director's Choice—Varietal Recognition |
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Thursday, 12 March 2009 |
Reported by Sarah Langstaff
Rutha Astravas led a group of delighted tasters on a tour through some of the less commonly known varietals. The three flights (a total of 13 wines) encompassed a wide range of flavours, textures, and intensities making each tasting a delight and the evening as a whole a wonderful experience.
The first flight contained the entire range of white wines for the evening and started with a 2005 Greek Athiri Villare Blanc de Blanc which was referred to as a “pseudo-sparkling”. Its floral and fruity nose was nicely balanced with some crisp apple flavours which made up for the lack of bubbles. This was followed by a 2005 Tuscan vernaccia, Teruzzi & Puthod Vernaccia Di San Gimignano. It also had a floral nose with some acetone that quickly left as the wine warmed. The anise and honey tones made this a delightful choice—but not the crowd favourite. A Piedmont Arneis, Cassetta Roero Arneis 2005, was a nice change of pace. It had a strong cayenne pepper flavour with peach and cherry overtones. The fourth was the definite crowd favourite—Amano from Puglia was affectionately described as a juicy, fruity wine with a slight mustiness. The fifth wine was definitely the most discussed—but generally found to be disgusting. Domaine Porto Carras Malagouzia 2007 from Greece had a blue cheese and sulphur nose but was tropical fruit in the extreme on the palette. The final wine of the flight Oremus Mandolas Furmint Dry Tokaji 2005 had surprising oakiness with a custard and artificial banana flavour complemented by what Mark colourfully described as “oxidized yellow raspberries”.
 The second flight started with a Corvine/ Rondinella/Molinara blend from Veneto—Negrar Bardolino. It was generally agreed that this lightbodied red should be served slightly chilled. No one chose the second wine—Makor De Elviwines 2004 from Utivel requena in Spain—as their favourite even though it was rich with cooked fruit and stewed prunes. Moletto Franconia from Veneto—a rustic and rugged red with grippy tannins which would go well with steak—and Duque De Viseu Red from Portugal—a wellbalanced, juicy, and acidic red with a long finish —tied for this flight’s crowd favourites.
The final flight comprised three more weighty wines. The Errazuriz Estate Carmenere from Chile replete with tobacco, ginger, coffee-ground, and dried black fruit was thought to be too green and harsh by this crowd. Mastroberardino Aglianico 2006 had a surprising minerality with hints of honeysuckle, lavender, candied fruit, and chocolate. The overwhelming crowd favourite was the Martinelli Sagrantino Di Montefalco 2003. When discussing the tannins, Ed exclaimed “I wish I had snow tires that gripped like this”. The grippy tannins were well balanced with perfumed floral notes and hints of cherry. This was a terrific tasting which allowed this author to check off some more varietals on her way to the century club. Thanks to Rutha for her wonderful choices and for leading such great discussion. Many thanks, too, to Jennifer Ward for her always excellent assistance!
The winesWhite
- Villare Blanc De Blanc, Athiri, Rhodes/Embona, Greece, $10.00
- Teruzzi & Puthod Vernaccia Di San Gimignano, 2005, Vernaccia, Vernaccia di San Gimignano, Tuscany, $15.95
- Cassetta Roero Arneis, 2005, Arneis, Piedmont, $14.25
- Amano, 50/50 Fiano & Greco Bianco, Puglia, $14.95
- Domaine Porto Carras Malagouzia, 2007, Malagouzia, Greece, $14.70
- Oremus Mandolás Furmint Dry Tokaji, 2005, Furmint, Tokaji, $25.95
Reds
- Negrar Bardolino , Corvina (structure) & Rondinella (neutral) & Molinara, Veneto, $10.95
- Makor De Elviwines 2004, 50% Bobal & 20% Tempranillo & 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, Utivel Requena,
- Spain, $13.90
- Moletto Franconia, Franconia, Veneto, $16.85
- Duque De Viseu Red, Touriga Nacional & Tinta Roriz, Portugal, $13.95
- Errazuriz Estate Carmenere, Carmenere, Chile, $13.95
- Mastroberardino Aglianico, 2006 , Aglianico, Campagna, $22.95
- Martinelli Sagrantino Di Montefalco, 2003, Umbria, Italy, $37.95
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Last Updated ( Monday, 06 April 2009 )
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