NB: The name of the mushroom is identified in parentheses following each dish.

Located at the edge of the parc de la Gatineau, l’Orée du Bois played host once again to a small group of adventuresome Guild members at this, the second of a hopefully long sequel of gastronomic dinners to take place at this restaurant, the latest instalment from Les Trois Suziens, the event dubbed Vin et Champignon à l’Orée du Bois. Co-animated by myself, Jean-Claude Chartrand, Yorick Blain and, special guest and owner of Champignons le Coprin, Christophe Marineau, we indulged ourselves in a carefully paired 10-service tapas-sized dinner fit for a king—this time, the Mushroom King.

Each service was explained to the group: First, we discussed the wine, then we discussed the dish, namely its ingredients and preparation, and lastly Christophe dazzled us with his profound knowledge of the mushroom ingredient—historical significance, origin, harvest (wild or cultivated), etc. Each service included a different mushroom, save the Nougat glacé forestier, which contained a blend of 4, and at least one wine.

For apéro, we served a Blanquette de Limoux with Gougère à la duxelles de Pleurottes, a little puff pastry stuffed with a seasoned mushroom paste (Pleurotte). The second service included Gravlax de saumon au poivre vert, estragon et salade de Flammulines (Flammulina), successfully attempted at the last Trois Suziens event, paired with the 2005 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc by Kim Crawford. The carefully chosen herbs in the dish went exceptionally well with the herbaceous character of the wine. The next service featured Nem d’Eringi sauce poisson, miel et menthe (Eringi), a soft spring roll stuffed with mushrooms and fish sauce, and a 1998 Vouvray. For those who enjoy non-fruit forward wines, this was a great example of an old Chenin. Lightly oxidized, but with good acidity, this match was heavenly. The last of the whites featured a pairing of Raviole de Morilles sauce gruyère et noisette (Morilles) and what is commonly called a “vin jaune loupé” from the Jura. The gruyère and hazel nuts in the Raviole were a perfect match with the pungent fino and nutty character typical of this type of wine. OK, enough with the whites, let see how the reds fared.

The first red, a 1999 Vosne-Romanée, was paired with Suprême de caille et sa poêlé de Chanterelles (Chanterelle). Unfortunately, the wine was completely closed, barely engaging the group with basic fruit aromas, but the dish more than compensated. The legs of quail and mushrooms were pan fried in the room, talk about animator involvement, filling the dinner area with aromatic smoke and much discussion. Three wines were paired with Ballottine de lièvre à la royale sauce aux Trompettes de la Mort (Trompette de la Mort). The wines included both a Connonau and a Monica di Sardegna, and the flight was completed with a Corsican Patrimonio (varietal, Nielluccio (Sangiovese clone)). Half of the group preferred the Monica, while the other half preferred the Patrimonio, but the entire group revelled over the lièvre. The dish was extremely gamy, a character very much enjoyed by this writer, and, much to the surprise of many, contained a dapple of foie gras in  the centre. Coupled with the black deadly looking Trompette de la Mort mushrooms, this service was not only appealing to the nose and palate, but appetizing to the eyes as well.

Next we paired a 2001 St-Chinian and a 2001 Cornas with the Médaillon de caribou aux Shiitake (Shiitake). Unfortunately, the St-Chinian was corked, but the Cornas more than compensated with some typical Northern Rhône Syrah aromas—and the caribou was great too. At this point, we were all so impressed with the food that sporadic discussions ensued and a true sense of conviviality engulfed the participants. The next service, the last of the main courses, was a Croûte de Cèpes de Bordeaux au fromage manchego et jambon serrano (Cèpes de Bordeaux) paired with a 1996 and a 1978 Rioja. Again, unfortunately, the 1996 was corked, but Jean-Claude graciously offered the group a replacement, which he brought to us wrapped in aluminium foil. Was it another Rioja? Was it even Spanish? It was a 2002 Ribeira del Duero specifically chosen to complete this truly terroir experience.

Lastly, but not least, the Nougat glacé forestier, a true sign of artistic cuisine, and Tartelette de chocolat truffée à la Truffe were served with an off-dry 2002 Alsatian Tokay Pinot Gris and a 2002 Rasteau Vin Doux Naturel. Wow, what a treat! 

Once again, I would like to take this opportunity to thank the team at l’Orée du Bois for their efforts in accommodating the Guild. Thank you to M et Mme Blain for allowing us the opportunity to do such an event, Jean-Claude and Yorick for sharing with us your truly artistic style of cuisine, and Christophe Marineau, not only for supporting an ancient activity in a country that’s lost its way with the mushroom, but for participating so enthusiastically in our event.

Santé à toutes et à tous!