Fortified Wines II: Reds Print
Reported by Marc Rollin

As the sequel to the previous week’s white fortified tasting, this event was a fitting conclusion to an experimental theme—the wines were effectively presented, the food was atypically, albeit appropriately, matched, and, as a compliment to any presenter, the event was both inviting and convivial. What a blast!

Following a quick introduction of the event and of the attending Board Members as well as a brief reminder of a “ringer” in the mix of wines, Hilary wasted little time and served the first wine—a White Port. What? I thought this was a “Reds” Tasting?!

The Fonseca White displayed intense aromas of honey, apricot, and orange as well as hints of a formidable alcohol strength—one person compared it to Grand Marnier liqueur. In the mouth, the wine was sweet and alcoholic, which is typical for this style of wine served at room temperature. The aromas of sweet marmalade and apricot pie followed in the mouth, and the wine proved to be a good match with the duo of cheese brought in from the Back Forty Artisan Cheese. The Flower Station Feta, with its formidable acidy, was voted as being the better match, while the Dalhousie, although a great cheese, could not stand up to the wine.

Now, on to the Rubys … The Fonseca Bin 27 was said to have a lot more character than the Noval LB, although the room was split as to which was the favourite. Both were excellent examples of the style, displaying intense red, almost candied, fruit notes, as well as good mouth feel backed with good tannin structure. A Summer Sausage and a Garlic Sausage, purchased at the Elk Ranch, were the food choices for this flight, and, again, the room was split as to which was the favourite. I found the food stood up to the wines in terms of mouth feel (Hilary mentioned that some pork fat is added to the meat to give it just that), but the Garlic Sausage’s aromatic intensity proved to be the better match—garlic and berry/cherry. Who would have thunk it?

Now, on to the Tawnys … Both from Taylor Fladgate, and both showing signs of age, these wines were, as well, excellent examples of the style. The 10 year-old had a nose reminiscent of hazelnut and caramel (one person compared it to Frangelica liqueur), where the 20 year-old displayed aromas of almonds, vanilla, and spice (no one mentioned Amaretto). Now, as was advertised in the event’s write-up, with the goal of finding that elusive tertiary flavour, a slice of Key-Lime Pie was paired with these wines. Some tasted Cuba Libre, with its lime/cola flavours, others did not. One person suggested experimenting with a cheaper Port next time, probably a good suggestion considering the 20 year-old costs $68, but, all in all, it was a welcomed experiment. Now, on to the Special Flight…

Ahhh, the Special Flight—a duo of wines that invoked much discussion and stirred much curiosity. The 1997 Single Quinta was complex and aromatic, displaying beautiful earthy and dark fruit notes…mushroom, plum, and black cherry. The wine had a dark purple colour and, in the mouth, the tannins were well accented by the residual sugar and glycerol. The second wine, although very Port-like, ended-up being the ringer. It was a 2000 Vintage Rasteau Vin Doux Naturel. This 100% Grenache Noir wine from the Southern Rhône is not only very rare, but, when fortified on the skins, bares a wonderful resemblance to Port. Although not as sweet as the Quinta, the tannins were very present and the aromas of violets and prunes could be discerned. Hilary served some Jamaican Fruit Cake from Pat’s Sweet Temptations and some assorted nuts with these wines. The fruitcake, washed periodically with rum, went exceptionally well with the Rasteau—the wine accentuated the fruit while remaining equal in sugar content.

And, now, onto the Vintage Flight—a 1985 Graham’s followed by its close sibling, the 1980. These wines were ultimately enjoyed with some Dark Chocolate and Milk Chocolate Chai Truffles, from Truffle Treasures as well as some Highland Blue Cheese from the Back Forty Artisan Cheese. Totally divine!

White Flight

Fonseca White, Douro, Portugal, 20% alc. $12.90

Food pairing: Flower Station Feta and Dalhousie Cheeses from Back Forty Artisan Cheese Lanark Highlands

(www.icelandicsheep.ca)

Ruby Flight

Fonseca Bin 27 Fine Reserve Port, Portugal, 20% alc. $16.95

‘Noval LB’ Port, Portugal, 19.5% alc. $22.95

Food pairing: Summer Sausage and Garlic Sausage from the Elk Ranch, Kanata, Ontario

Tawny Flight

Taylor Fladgate 10 Year Old Tawny Port, Portugal, 19.8% alc. $33.95

Taylor Fladgate 20 Year Old Tawny Port, Portugal, 20% alc. $67.95

Food pairing: Key Lime Pie (from the Great Canadian Superstore – Loblaws)

Special Flight

Quinta da Eira Velha Single Quinta Vintage Port, 1997, Portugal, 20% alc. $59.95

Rasteau Vin Doux Naturel, Rasteau, France, 17% alc. (500ml) $39.00

Food pairing: West Indian Fruit Cake from Pat’s Sweet Temptations, Carleton Place and Assorted Nuts

Vintage Flight

Graham’s Vintage Port, 1985, Portugal, 20% alc. $109.95

Graham’s Vintage Port, 1980, Portugal, 20% alc. $115.95

Food pairing: Dark Chocolate Truffles, Milk Chocolate Chai Truffles from Truffle Treasures, Ottawa

(www.truffletreasures.com) and Highland Blue Cheese from Back Forty Artisan Cheese Lanark Highlands

Last Updated ( Monday, 08 May 2006 )
 
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Don't Drink and DrinkThe National Capital Sommelier Guild strongly supports moderate and responsible consumption of wine and spirits. Guild dinner events allow a designated driver to attend at a reduced price. The designated driver will not be served alcohol. Guild tasting events provide and encourage the use of spit buckets.
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