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Champagnes, Sparkling Wines, and Fine Dining! Part Two |
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Sunday, 23 April 2006
Reported by Steven Elder
A group of 20 or so Guild members and friends braved a blustery Sunday evening to attend the Guild’s second Champagne Dinner. There was a keen edge of anticipation, not just at the prospect of a whole evening of bubbly, but also because this is one of the city’s most talked-about restaurants, Beckta Dining and Wine. Guild VP Martin Carrière had worked closely with owner/sommelier Stephen Beckta, and chef Stephen Vardy, to build a menu around four Méthode Champenoise sparkling wines and one Sauternes.
The aperitif wine was a Canadian entry from BC: ‘Steller’s Jay’ Brut 2001 by Sumac Ridge. This was a very pleasant surprise. Quite deep in colour with a fine mouse, it had an attractive nose of apples, pears, and flowers. Apples showed up strongly on the pallet as well, giving almost a sensation of sweetness, but a nice zip of acidity kept everything in balance. A range of canapés was served alongside, including tuna tartar topped with a tiny beet chip, and sweetbreads in a honey glaze.
The first course was a remarkable duck consommé, flavoured with Banyuls. Clear, and fragrant, this soup was a lovely light start to the meal. The three little foie gras “bon bons” floating on top gave just a little hint of richness. Paired with this was Taittinger’s Domaine Carneros Brut 2000 from Napa. This had a yeasty and spicy nose, reasonable complexity, and just a hint of sweetness. Although only a year older than the Steller’s Jay, it seemed not nearly as lively, and had a hard time standing up to the noticeable pepper in the consommé.
The next pairing, however, was a match made in heaven: rich house-smoked salmon with a fine champagne, Saint-Gall Brut Premier Cru. The very noticeable acid of the Saint-Gall was the perfect foil to the fat of the salmon. And unlike much smoked salmon, the smoke here was done with such a light hand that it did not overwhelm the delicate flavour of either the salmon or the wine, with its ginger notes and good minerally character. This champagne was one second-pour that was enthusiastically received.
The main course was certainly the most interesting and unorthodox pairing of the evening. Champagne is not usually the first wine to pop to mind when roast veal is on the menu. Yet there were elements to this dish that made it work, and put an end to any longing for a big tannic red! The veal was served with a tomato confit and a brown-butter champagne-vinegar jus, both of which imparted a slight sweet-and-tart taste that complemented the citrus flavours of the Duval-Leroy 'Cuvée Design Paris' Brut Champagne.
Dessert was an occasion for something completely different (as it should be) and presented us with another revealing match: Sauternes paired with a scrumptious Peanut Butter Praline Dome, layers of crunchy praline sandwiched between a very peanuty mouse. The Château Partarrieu, from the great 2001 vintage, had an intense botrytis nose, with lots of pineapple.
Medium-bodied, well balanced and not overly sweet, it offered great refreshment value; it could have been dessert all on its own. Peanut is usually the death of most wines, yet this wine had such intensity of flavour that it paired very well.
Although Stephen Beckta had a prior engagement and could not join us, we were all very pleased to be introduced to Janet Fletcher, a member of the Beckta team and one of this year’s recipients of the Guild’s Scholarship for Wine Education. The attentive service of Janet and the whole Beckta crew helped ensure a relaxing and memorable evening. |
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Last Updated ( Saturday, 03 June 2006 )
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The National Capital Sommelier Guild strongly supports moderate and responsible consumption of wine and spirits. Guild dinner events allow a designated driver to attend at a reduced price. The designated driver will not be served alcohol. Guild tasting events provide and encourage the use of spit buckets.