Wednesday, 28 June 2006
Reported by Dawn Harvie
There was a full house for the Cave Spring (NOT Cave Springs!) tasting. Angelo Pavan, the winemaker there (for no less than 20 years!) and the Ottawa representative, Lauren Hayes, joined us for a tasting of many of their estate bottled wines.
The first flight consisted of the 2004, 2003, and 2002 CSV Rieslings (in that order). The 2004 was very young with a nose of apple, pear, and a little lime. In the mouth, it had those same flavours with good acid. Angelo thought it would turn out to be quite like the 2002 a few years down the line. He also mentioned that a classic character of Cave Spring Riesling was lime. The 2003 was a little oily, with some citrus, peach, and stone. In the mouth, it had a great mouth feel with a lot of body, good acid, and (30g) residual sugar. The 2002 had some lanolin and light petrol notes, some thought beeswax and lemon polish. On the palate, these notes came through with a little residual sugar and good mouth feel.
Flight two featured the 2003, 2002, and 2000 CSV Chardonnay. The 2003 had a nose of burnt toast, a little smoky, and someone even said “decaying pineapple”. In the mouth, again there was some burnt toast, but there was a creamy, buttery, spicy, viscosity to it. Angelo said that it has really yet to evolve. He noted that their Chardonnays are all 100% barrel fermented and that his intention is always to produce well-structured wines with a touch of the Chardonnay minerality. The 2002 was a little closed on the nose, but in the mouth there was a ton of butterscotch and smoky, toasty oak, with good acid, a rich mouth feel, and a long finish (although a touch hot). James Bertrand, Guild President, thought that this wine was the best of the three Chardonnays in terms of combination of characteristics and balance. However, one Guild member thought that this wine might not last too much longer because of the heat, but Angelo said he bet it would and said he would bring it back in two years! The 2000 had an unusual nose—popcorn (with butter!), but in the mouth, it was buttery with mineral notes and good acid. Angelo suggested that a rich white meat, like goose, would work really well with this wine.
During the third flight we had the opportunity to try the 2004 and the 2002 Gamay Reserve and the 2002 Cabernet/Merlot Reserve. The 2004 Gamay was like a bowl of strawberries with a few cherries topped with balsamic vinegar and pepper! It also had some earthy/sweaty notes, and several people described it as having a nose of rhubarb. In the mouth, there was lots of fruit with pepper and good acidity. A great food wine. Angelo suggested that it be served lightly chilled. He also mentioned that the defining characteristics of a Cave Spring Gamay are aromas of earth and pepper, with barnyard notes once aged. The 2002 had more cherry fruit than the 2004. It had some earthy flavours in the mouth, and cherry on the finish. It had good body. Angelo said that he does not put his Gamays through malolactic fermentation so that you do not get any of that bubblegum and cotton candy in the wine. They are more structured as well. The Cabernet/Merlot (which actually had more Merlot than Cabernet) had all the characteristic qualities of a Cabernet/Merlot blend—some green pepper, earth, lead pencil, and cedar. Angelo said the signature characteristics of their Bordeaux-style blends are chocolate and mocha. In the mouth, the Cabernet/Merlot had all of the flavours it had on the nose, as well as some black cherry, with well-integrated tannins. It was made in a nicely restrained style. This was a great opportunity to taste the premium wines of Cave Spring, not to mention the commentary of Angelo! It is not necessary to tell you how interesting it is to have the winemaker describe in person his winemaking theory and technique! I’m looking forward to his next visit with Guild members (in two years, I hope!).
Flight 1
- CSV Riesling, 2004
- CSV Riesling, 2003
- CSV Riesling, 2002
Flight 2
- CSV Chardonnay, 2003
- CSV Chardonnay, 2002
- CSV Chardonnay, 2000
Flight 3
- Gamay Reserve, 2004
- Gamay Reserve, 2002
- Cabernet/Merlot Reserve, 2002
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The National Capital Sommelier Guild strongly supports moderate and responsible consumption of wine and spirits. Guild dinner events allow a designated driver to attend at a reduced price. The designated driver will not be served alcohol. Guild tasting events provide and encourage the use of spit buckets.